The garboard planks were both glued and screwed to the keel and lowest stringer. You use System 3 epoxy that comes in a kit. The epoxy glue is mixed 1 part resin to 1 part hardener. I used the medium#2 resin, designed for moderate climates as we have here in Virginia. The glue is mixed with silica particles to thicken it to a consistency of oatmeal and then applied to the stringer. The stringer and plank edges are 'wet down' with expoxy before the glue is thickened. There is a working time of anywhere from 40 minutes to an hour before the glue hardens to a point that you cannot freely apply it. Watch out!...it gets hot as the chemical reaction between the resin and hardener releases energy. 3/" #8 flathead stainless steel screws were used and counerset into the plank to a depth of about 2 mm....be careful not to drill the counterset to deep or the screw head will go right through the plank when you do the final installation with glue. Then you have the awful job of scraping off the 'squeeze out' which is the excess glue that emerges from the joined surfaces. You have to get under the boat to get this off and you must get it all off or a white streak will show up later on your planking. I used acetone soaked rags to wipe down the plank afterwards so that all traces of excess glue were gone. Two days later the glue was cured and I mean CURED. It is so strong that you can't break the bond before the wood just cracks or breaks. The screws probably aren't even necessary. I forgot to mention that the screws joining the first plan to the stringer are removed after 24 hours as you will be overlapping the next plank on top of the upper 3/4" of the garboard and don't want underlying screws to be in the way of the new screws thgat will go through the next row of planking, the top edge of the garboard and into the first stringer. This overlapping of planks gives you the so called 'lapstrake' appearance that distinguishes this boat and gives it its nice lines and curves.. It also allows for the round bottom of the boat as the planks change direction towards the vertical as you continue the build. The top edges of the garboards were planed down to be even with the edge of the stringer.
              The second row of planks were then added. This time the planking was started towards the bow so that the scarf joints alternated . the second row of planking was shaped by putting an excessively wide piece of planking on the top edge of the garboard and overlapping the next stringer. This would be a dry fitting so that you could trace the shape of the plank by going under the boat and making lines on the new plank using the tops of the lowest stringer and next stringer. You then take the plank off and add 3/4" to the line you drew for the bottom of the plank. You also have to cut the gain in the fron of the boat so that the second row of planking blends into the stem and is even with the garboard at the stem. Arch describes how to measure and cut these gains. I found a dremel rotary tool fitted with a metal cuttin wheel to be invaluable in cutting into the edge of the gain...much easier than using a hand saw to make this cut which involes the front 16 inches of the garboard top edge. You then chisel out the gain and also use a rabbet plane to make your gain. The bottom of the plank you are about to install also needs to be cut along the lines previously drawn, except where the gain is. That part is tricky. I screwed the plank back on the boat and gradually planed down the edge of the plank that is to fit into the gain. I found this the easiest way to be accurate as I would just plane off a little at a time until I could just fit the new plank into the gain. It is quite nice to see the front of the next row of planking blend into the stem, even with the planks adjacent to it.